Denpasar

Bali's capital, Denpasar- sprawling, traffic-chocked, mess of people- we had to enter this chaotic maze yesterday because we were on a mission- well two missions: A. get Brian a Indonesian driver's license and B. extend our Indonesian visas. Ever since we failed at getting the much-prized 60 day Indonesian visa while in Kuala Lumpur, we have been plotting a way to stay in Indonesia. We settled on trying for an extension on our 30 day tourist visa, but we knew it probably wouldn't be easy. So, we took off for Denpasar (on a moto- sorry mom!) and tried to navigate through a city where we didn't know where we were going, and had no map- not the most brilliant of plans. After asking ten odd people, and getting ten very different responses (and going on a two-hour long goose hunt), we left our bike outside of a mini-mart and got in a cab. Our cab driver turned out to be completely over-bearing, and saw massive $$$$ when he picked up two sweaty American's (he thought he got to take us back to Ubud). Anyways, we headed to the immigration department and learned that everyone was out for lunch, so we headed to the police center across town. Our taxi driver took Brian in the station and stuck by his side, being translator, while Brian was issued a genuine 3 week Indonesian license. It was then back across town to Kantor Imigrasi, where we happily left our driver (he was not so happy) and headed in check our visa situation. We went back and forth for a while until we realized that we needed an Indonesian "sponsor." So it was back to our bike, although we couldn't find it! Brian got his workout in by running down two streets until, thank God, we found the damn thing. So it was back to Ubud.

Side note- every time we talk to Indonesians, they say "America, yah, good country, Barack Obama, he went to Indonesia, he is a good man." This is something quite startling. We are used to traveling under the Bush regime, where you had to pretend to be Canadian, but now America is definitely entering a popularity shift, thanks to Mr. President. 

America's new found popularity is also due to the fact that Obama grew up in Indonesia (his mom remarried an Indonesian)- who knew!?.

The quietist of quiet and the darkest of dark

Well I forgot we never told you about the actual Nyepi Day (Silent Day). We weren't sure how serious silent day was going to be, but when we woke up in the morning and tried to sneak out of our guest house, there were people guarding the street and police cars patrolling the roads for anyone that was breaking Nyepi. Anyone caught would be punished by cleaning the many, many temples around the area. Needless to say, we stayed in...we played cards, ate pb & j's and watched movies, so it wasn't too bad- although the people at the Hyatt were not even allowed to leave there room or have access to electricity! We were allowed to have lights as long as the blinds were closed.  Once it was nightfall, we did another sneak out mission and were blinded by the complete darkness. We have never seen a city go completely black, for an entire night, but it was amazing and similar to camping. The next day it was like Nyepi never even happened, the only evidence being 10 foot tall monsters still guarding the street (and a couple of random monster limbs scattered on the ground).

 

We left Sanur and headed to Ubud with a couple new card games, although minus two friends. Ubud is interesting. It used to be a small village but is now the epi-center of all things hippie. I feel like being a hippie here is like when you were thirteen and everyone wore ties because Avril Lavigne did...Despite the trendiness of hippieness, I rather like Ubud and I feel quite happy about all the things that hippies have brought to this place... like:

Yoga

Organic food

Organic clothes

Tempe/tofu-well vegetarian food in general!

Vegan baked goods

No MSG!

So Brian and I have settled into a little Ubud routine, mainly wandering around and stumbling upon beautiful hotels, rice patties, and great food. 

Goodbye Winter's Abroad!

We said goodbeye to The Winter's Abroad yesterday. They flew to Singapore and we caught a bus to Ubud. Here are some photos of all of us enjoying our time together!

Bali,Bali,Bali

Thousands of people wearing white robes took over the roads yesterday in Sanur. It is almost a week of festivities approaching Nyepi, the Balinesian day of silence. Nyepi is a crazy holiday, not only is the airport closed but tourists aren't even allowed outside of their hotel- so we did what any American threatened with a lack of eating ammenities would do...we raided a local grocery store for peanut butter, jam, and oreos...classic! Here is a breakdown of the craziness, thanks to wikipedia:

• "First, The Melasti Ritual is performed at the 3-4 previous day. It is dedicated to Sanghyang Widhi Wasa and is performed at the beach to respect them as the owner of The Land and Sea. The ritual performed in Pura (Balinese temple) near the sea (Pura Segara) and meant to purify Arca, Pratima, and Pralingga (sacred objects) belongs to several temples, also to acquire sacred water from the sea.
• Second, The Bhuta Yajna Ritual is performed in order to vanquish the negative elements and create balance with God, Mankind, and Nature. The ritual also meant to appease Batara Kala by Pecaruan offering. Devout Hindu Balinese villages usually make ogoh-ogoh, demonic statues made of bamboo and paper symbolizing negative elements or malevolent spirits. After the ogoh-ogoh have been paraded around the village, the Ngrupuk ritual takes place, which involves burning the ogoh-ogoh."
• Third, The Nyepi Rituals is performed with the following conditions:
  • Amati Geni: No fire/light, including no electricity
  • Amati Karya: No working
  • Amati Lelunganan: No travelling
  • Amati Lelanguan: Fasting and no revelry/self-entertainment
• Fourth, The Yoga/Brata Ritual starts at 6:00 AM  (March 5) and continues to 6:00 AM the next day.
• Fifth, The Ngebak Agni/Labuh Brata Ritual is performed for all Hindus to forgive each other and to welcome the new days to come.
• Sixth and finally, The Dharma Shanti Rituals is performed as the Nyepi Day or "Day of Silence."

-The ogoh-ogoh are gruesome things to see! There come in every variety of monster- though we have seen an awfull lot of saggy boobs on some these creatures, maybe the Balinese are afraid of saggy bits.

We will take photos tonight of the monster mash and post them the day after tomorrow, because we are grounded tomorrow...

Here's some photos of Bali and it's people:

 

Bali!

Direstreets in Indonesia

Helmet Heads

Deus ex machina- An awesome bike shop that turns classic bikes into cafe racers. We were indifferent about the bikes because the shop was gorgeous and just exuded "cool." Hopefully one day we can incorporate their clean designs into a hostel!

Tanah Lot Temple- the one we wrote about sitting on fake rock. It is best seen at sunset, but we went mid-day to beat the tourist hoards.

 

We are traveling in Bali on their off-season, which is surprising because we haven't seen so many other Westerners since Siem Riep. We have finally left the crowd and headed to Sanur, which is called "snore" in our guide books, but we will gladly take snoring over trance music induced sleeplessness, so we are set!

Some Balinesian Surprises:

1. The island isn't all about peace and rice fields- there are a lot of people, traffic, and garbage.

2. Every time we pass Balinesians they say: Aussie, Aussie, Aussie or transport!? (which sounds like passport)- it makes us reminisce the days when we only heard "tuk-tuk" and "massageee."

3. Eat, Pray, Love- the phenomenon that spurred a thousand divorced women to head to Bali in hopes of finding their own Javier Bardem.

4. Julia Roberts (or Elizabeth Gilbert) is not walking the streets.

5. Quicksilver and Billabong are like Starbucks in Seattle.

6. Hotels are expensive even though they are the worst places we have stayed at! You have to really work to find a reasonably priced place that is well taken care of.

7. Bob Marley is idolized.

8. The Balinesian rituals make you want to stay in Bali, the beaches do not!